While the Pfeffingen 2008 Ungsteiner Weilberg Riesling Grosses Gewachs retains a mere 1.5 grams of residual sugar, it is less extreme in terms of alcohol than the corresponding Herrenberg. Lemon and grapefruit offer brightness, and white almond and peach are folded into a texturally subtly creamy palate. Hints of peach kernel, smoky black tea, grapefruit zest, and salt add contrast and invigoration to a wine far more fun to drink than its rather massive and staid Herrenberg counterpart. There is sap and energy to spare, and I would not be surprised to find it worth following for a decade. It threatened to become another 2006, said Jan Eymael of the mid-September, 2008 rain, but even in the warmest parts of the Pfalz the weather stayed relatively cool, and he did not pick the first Rieslings until September 30, then continuing off and on for three weeks. The later it got, the better the grapes became, comments Eymael. Another month on the vine allowed for the November 18 picking of two magnificent nobly sweet Scheureben.Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. (800) 596-9463

Bright aromas of white peach, roasted hazelnut and mineral salts. The rich, unctuous tropical fruit flavors are finely counterpointed by a smoky minerality that adds complexity. Dense and pleasingly long, this wine offers excellent potential.