A portion of old, low yielding vines and very low yields appear to me what makes it reasonable that Ente’s 2006 Meursault Les Petits Charrons – a wine of village ranking – be served after his Gouttes d’Or premier cru. Once again, we have an understated (yet striking) wine, featuring “cool” herbal, white peach, and citrus characteristics, in this instanced with intriguing hints of mushroom stock, wet stone, and a savory, saline, umami-rich note that – when allied to the citrus – makes for a positively Pavlovian finish. The texture here is subtly oily yet the overall impression is sleek and fleet-footed. This should be fascinating for follow for at least 5-7 years. Ente began picking September 13, finishing in six days. The result is wines of consistent clarity and refreshment, as well as full of nuances that call forth a mineral vocabulary. Use of demi-muids rather than barriques to raise many of the wines here helps ward off any overt woodiness. Eighty percent of Ente’s wine is exported, most of that to the U.S. and U.K. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 524-1524