Offering an aromatically rich nose of citrus fruits and slate, the medium to full-bodied 2004 Chablis Fourchaume Vieilles Vignes de Vaulorens admirably combines richness and concentration with precision and liveliness. Armed with great depth of fruit, this intense effort is jam-packed with sea shells, flowers, apples, and slate. Projected maturity: now-2012. Jean-Marie Guffens, who has been strongly criticized by his importers and distributors for the frank comments of his I’ve quoted in The Wine Advocate, is much more circumspect than he once was. His view of the hierarchy of Burgundy’s white wine regions in 2004 coincides with my findings, “Chablis did best because it had 15 extra days before harvest, then the Maconnais, and lastly the Cote d’Or where yields figures were in the stratosphere...2004 started terribly, except for a hugely successful flowering, then July and August were as bad as anything I’ve seen – huge rains. We were unquestionably saved by the nice weather we had in September and through October 10.” To Guffens, “The latest harvested hillside vineyards produced the finest wines.” He reported declassifying numerous batches of grapes from the water-logged flats, and having to do enormous sorting out of grapes affected by rot. Moreover, alcoholic (until March, 2006) and malo-lactic fermentations dragged on for months on end.When asked his personal thoughts on the 2004s, Guffens said, “I adore drinking this vintage,” then he screamed “Drink it!” at the top of his lungs. The following notes are in the order the wines were served, as always, and reflect Guffens’s belief that the Cote d’Or fared worse in 2004 while the Chablisien performed best.A Peter Vezan Selection, Paris fax #011-33-1-42-55-42-93; importers include North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (800) 266-6585; also a Patrick Lesec Selection, Paris Fax #: 011-33-4-66-37-67-23, various American importers including Bacchus Importers; tel. (800) 525-9699