The Kollwentz 2007 Welschriesling Beerenauslese – vinified in used barriques – suggests pineapples and lemon zest in syrup and honey, dusted with brown spices. Creamy in texture, despite its intense sweetness and, at this stage, relative lack of complexity, one cannot help but be impressed by the purity and sheer length of this elixir. It will doubtless be worth following for at least 6-8 years. The Kollwentzes – Andi and father Anton Kollwenz – produce some of Austria’s most celebrated and expensive wines, and one would be hard-pressed to find two more conscientious or engaging vintners with whom to discuss their craft. I continue however to take highly variable satisfaction in the wines at this address, their reds and their single-vineyard Chardonnays often striking me as a bit stiff and overly-oaky, whereas the purity and longevity of their nobly sweet wines consistently impress, and I find their Sauvignon one of the world’s best (albeit little known outside Austria).Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700