The 2006 Subtil Gran Reserva Brut Nature contains 12% Chardonnay in addition to the traditional varieties. It exhibits a slightly more refined perfume including notes of minerality, almonds, white peaches, and fresh biscuit. Savory and flavorful in the mouth and impeccably balanced, it is a first-class effort in sparkling wine.
Recaredo Mata Casanovas is on my (very) short list of finest Cava producers in the DO. All of the fruit is sourced from estate vineyards in the Alt Penedes region, is Demeter-certified biodynamic in its farming practices (since 2009), aged in the cellars with natural cork stoppers, bottles are turned by hand in traditional racks, and are disgorged by hand without freezing. The vintage, months of aging, and date of disgorging are shown on all bottles. The Bodega’s stated reference points for their Cavas are Salon, Selosse, and Paul Bara. As an aside, I was shown three older vintages (1996, 1991, and 1984) disgorged in my presence during my visit. They were fully alive and vibrant, developing in the manner of the grandes marques of Champagne. These tasting notes are from my visit to Cava Recaredo in January 2011.
Importer: Neal Rosenthal, The Mad Rose Group, www.madrose.com