Mark Vlossak, St. Innocent's winemaker and one of its principals, is a great fan of Alsatian Pinot Gris, particularly those of Domaine Ostertag. This fondness is reflected in his 1999 Pinot Gris Vitae Springs Vineyard. This wine has smoky, dried honey, spice, and yellow fruit aromas that would lead a taster to believe that it is Alsatian. Light to medium-bodied and satin-textured, it is harmonious, focused, and offers a nicely detailed, white fruit-flavored personality. Drink it over the next two years. Tel. (503)-378-1526.