The brilliant 2010 Thalarn is a pure Syrah that is partially fermented in rock vessels and stainless steel and aged in barrel for 10 months in 70% new oak. It has an incredibly intense bouquet of small black cherries, cassis, blueberry and a touch of peppercorn that is very well-defined, but extremely primal. The palate is medium-bodied with filigree tannins and a satin-like texture. It possesses outstanding focus and precision plus wonderful minerality and clarity towards the finish that exudes finesse, handling the new oak so that you barely notice it. This is an exceptional Syrah that should age magnificently. Drink 2013-2020+.
It was a long, long drive to visit Castell d’Encus, located in the foothills of the Pyrenees at almost 1,000 metres altitude at the end of a never-ending winding lane that should be sign-posted “middle of nowhere.” It was 10:45 p.m. when we finally arrived in the pitch black. Winemaker, former director of Torres and partner in Priorat’s “Ferrer-Bobet,” Raul Bobet came to greet me. It had been a long day. I was knackered. My palate was asking where the hell dinner had gone? Fortunately, my palate was about to taste a portfolio of extremely accomplished, delicious, intellectually satisfying wines that formed one of the highlights of my trip. This is an example of extreme, obsessive winemaking, Raul often asking himself what the hell he was doing. What inspired him was the chance discovery of “rock fermenters.” These are medieval vessels carved into the stone that must have been used by the local monks. They were using gravity long before the Bordelais were crowing about it. Raul has trialled these fermenters and is now beginning to ferment his entire portfolio in them. It gives a new meaning to the word: “minerality.” (Check the winery’s website to see the fermenters: www.encuseng.weebly.com)
Importers: VINoVI&Co, 401 West Marshall Avenue, Ferndale, MI 48220 and United Cellars, 2248 NW 82nd Avenue, Doral, FL 33122
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