Where Perriere is just east of Mazis-Chambertin, Boillot's 2006 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Corbeaux comes from 60 year old vines just north of that grand cru. Here, too, an enticing and mouthwatering savor – in this instance reminding me of pan drippings from a roast – mingles with ripe, subtly-tart cherry and black raspberry. This displays refined tannins, and a darker, forest floor and peat character rather than the spice of the La Perriere. The overall performance here borders on the austere, but the finish resonates dynamically between the dark berry fruits and dark woodsy notes of soil and fungus, while engendering a lip-smacking savor analogous to that of the brighter, spicier La Perriere. This should have at least the better part of a decade's potential to satisfy. Pierre Boillot (grandson of Lucien) vinified and marketed together until 2003 with his slightly older brother Louis (who now shares facilities with his wife Ghislaine Barthod, and most of the same appellations as Pierre, and on whose outstanding wines I reported in issue 170 and again in this issue). They then separated their shares of inheritance, which include equally prime acreage in both Cotes, thanks to Lucien having long ago left his family's Volnay estate (now Domaine Henri Boillot) to stake his own claim in Gevrey. My first visit to taste here convinced me that this address and Pierre Boillot's talent should be known to all Burgundy lovers. Pierre Boillot lays great store by lees enrichment, never bottling before the second spring, and then without filtration.Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524