This wine may be the finest wine Chevillon has crafted from this little-known premier cru vineyard. It reveals a medium-to-dark ruby color and rich scents of plump red fruits. This feminine, supple, focused, medium-to-full-bodied offering has dense layers of ripe red and black berries that last throughout its admirable finish. Anticipated maturity: now-2006. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524.

In this glass: what the hype on '96 red Burgundy is all about. This wine is inky-black in color, fat in texture, showing clean but ripe flavors of blackberry, spice and a touch of oak-infused mocha. A great follow-up to the classic '95 from this unheralded premier cru vineyard. Should live for a decade. Drink now through 2010. 325 cases made. -PM