Tremblay's 2007 Vosne-Romanée Vieilles Vignes is at the peak of its powers, wafting from the glass with an expressive bouquet of smoky berry fruit, warm spices, dark chocolate and grilled squab. Medium-bodied, supple and melting, it's delicate and charming, with an enveloping core of fruit, ripe acids and melting tannins. Readers with bottles in their cellars should try one, as this is drinking beautifully.