This is top drawer—elegant, detailed and richly varietal. The fruit is tart and tangy but not sour or thin. Mixed green fruits, apple, citrus, and a lightly toasty nose set up a wine with impressive length. The midpalate richness includes ripe melon, butterscotch and cinnamon spice. It’s all barrel-fermented in neutral oak. This is a real strength of the brand.——P.G.(12/1/2007)—— 91