The second of two pickings for De Moor’s 2007 Chablis La Rosette – from an especially rocky, fossil-rich Kimmeridgian site adjacent to the premier cru Beauregards – was not until October 1. Perhaps in part because of the relatively spare, bright character inherent in this vintage, the small amount of newer barrels employed here shows up as an aromatic overlay of resin and lanolin. Yellow plum and lemon are laced with cyanic bitterness, and a musky, animal note adds a sense of mystery. This lacks the low-notes or richness of the Bel Air, as well as that wine’s dynamism. Perhaps more time is needed for its parts to integrate, and I hesitate to speculate meantime on its longer-term evolution. Beginning their harvest in mid-September, the De Moors made two passes on nearly every parcel to adapt to irregular ripening that was a legacy of hail. The upshot was thus another labor-intensive and low-yielding vintage, but there the similarities with 2006 end, as the character of the De Moor 2007s is strikingly different; and they are more consistently excellent.Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334-8191