From fossil-rich Kimmeridgian soil, and primarily vinified and assembled – by the time I tasted it – from older barrels (like the rest of the DeMoor range) but with a few new feuillettes or barriques thrown in, the 2006 Chablis Rosette displays an alluring and unusual hint of blueberry along with a clear depth of citrus, pit fruits, and hard-to-pin-down mineral essences. While quite ripe and full, it never lets up on sheer refreshment. Toasted nuts, fruit pits, citrus zest and chalk all pungently mark the long, luscious finish of this excellent candidate for at least 4-6 years’ bottle age.With only a 35 hectoliter per hectare average yield, and given batches of high-alcohol Saint Bris and Chablis stuck with more than merely awkward residual sugar (as of last winter), one could hardly call 2006 a commercially successful year for the De Moors. But their best wines from this vintage are nonetheless admirable.Importer: Vintage 59, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 966-9812