The 1999 Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru Les Brulees, served blind, has a deep, broody nose that feels younger than its 15 years. There is plenty of ripeness here, slightly medicinal, with just a hint of menthol emerging with time in the glass, a nose that expresses the precocity of that season. The palate is medium-bodied with firm, chewy tannins – a robustness that marks out a great Brulees. There is good depth: a sturdy and forthright Vosne-Romanee with a sweet, plush finish that suggests it will chug along nicely for another decade. Tasted March 2014.

Gorgeous and exotic. Floral, with lovely blackberry and currant aromas and flavors. It flutters on the palate like a butterfly, teasing you with all its facets. Medium- to full-bodied and supple, the texture is silky, and the flavors linger on the finish. Drink now through 2010. 240 cases made. -PM