The 2009 Cote a Cote emerges from the glass with dark black cherries, plums, cassis, spices and white flowers. Sweet, silky tannins frame the exceptionally long, polished finish. This is another superb, totally elegant wine from L’Aventure. The blend is 42% Grenache, 33% Syrah and 25% Mourvedre, with a total of 50% new French oak. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2019. Stephan Asseo is one of the most intriguing characters in the Paso Robles scene. A native of Pomerol, Asseo was attracted to Paso for its soil, microclimate and, most importantly of all, an opportunity to pursue the American dream with none of the constraints imposed by French regulations. Not surprisingly, Asseo’s wines show a clear connection to Bordeaux in the use of Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot, which are not widely planted in Paso. Most importantly, though, Asseo is one of the few producers in the area who is obsessed with the way his wines age, and in this respect a little Old World perspective can only be a good thing for a region just starting to write the first chapters of its present day history. The 2009s at L’Aventure were picked starting in September 3, on the early side for this property. The wines show plenty of radiant fruit and silky, textured personalities that are the result of a year with even, strong heat but no temperature spikes. Asseo describes the vintage as ‘very California.’ The reds were all aged in French oak and were bottled without fining or filtration just prior to my early June visit. The handful of 2010s I tasted from barrel also showed great promise. All of the L’Aventure wines are now made exclusively from estate-owned fruit and the property is in the process of being converted to biodynamic farming.Tel. (805) 227-1588; www.aventurewine.com
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