More concentrated and rich than the Croix de Bois, the 1998 Chateauneuf du Pape Barbe Rac offers a blockbuster bouquet of blackberries, kirsch, ground herbs, licorice and scorched earth. Coming from the southwestern sector of the appellation and vines planted in 1901, this full-bodied, layered and sexy 1998 has enough fruit and depth to continue drinking nicely for another decade.

Chapoutier’s 1998 Barbe Rac is close to full maturity. It exhibits an abundance of Provencal herbs intermixed with new saddle leather, kirsch, framboise, and spice box. The intoxicatingly heady, complex aromatics are followed by a full-bodied, lush, succulent style of wine with a relatively high alcohol/glycerin content and loads of fruit. This wine is drinking terrifically well after going through an awkward stage about two to three years ago. Drink it between now and 2020.