More chewy, rustic and concentrated than the Croix de Bois, the 2003 M. Chapoutier Chateauneuf du Pape Barbe Rac offers up meaty aromas of dried licorice, dusty earth, beef blood and cured meats. Taking the better part of the evening to open up, it gains in both sweetness and polish with air. On the palate, it is full-bodied, broad-shouldered and decidedly rich, with a core of concentrated fruit and still notable tannin adding grip through the finish. One of the younger 2003s at this stage, I still think it’s drinking at point and would aim for consuming bottles over the coming 5-7 years.

I have a slight preference for the 2003 Chateauneuf du Pape Barbe Rac, which possesses a deep ruby/plum/purple color as well as a big, sweet nose of kirsch liqueur, pepper, garrigue, and spice box. This structured, dense, full-bodied, moderately tannic, long, rich effort should hit its apogee in 3-4 years, and last for two decades.