As it often is, Pira’s 2004 Barolo Marenca is a thrilling wine. This layered, sumptuous Barolo possesses generous, plump fruit, sweet spices, menthol and new leather flavors with an expansive, rich personality. The oak is well-integrated and the wine offers superb balance, with tannins that finish big but polished. The Marenca is aged exclusively in 500-liter barrels. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2024. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411