Tasted alongside the burly 2004, this wine is slightly more dry and dusty. Its nose offers Odfjell’s patented richness and ripeness along with kirsch and candy. But with all that, it’s balanced and pushes up against elegance. There’s even a hint of mushroom and Sherry if you dig deep enough. Interesting for Cab Franc, but very different than the Loire or Bordeaux version; this is much riper.——M.S.(5/1/2009)—— 90
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