Unusually lush, even for this vintage, it starts with pronounced aromas of limes and lemons, fresh green apples, and juniper berries, and turns luscious in the mouth. Partial barrel fermentation and lees aging create a creamy, smoky mouthfeel, while the fruity flavors are volcanic. But it’s dry and elegant. Virtually flawness Sauvignon Blanc. ——S.H.(11/15/2002)—— 93