The 2006 Kaplja (Chardonnay, Friulano, Malvasia) is a touch rounder and also more harmonious at this stage than the Ribolla. Sweet, silky tannins frame a core of perfumed fruit. This medium-bodied wine offers outstanding length and a clean, refined finish. It’s all elegance and class here. The Kaplja should be ready to drink earlier than the more structured and powerful Ribolla. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2016.
Damijan Podversic is one of Friuli’s most promising and hardworking young growers. Though deeply inspired by his friend and mentor Josko Gravner, Damijan has developed his own voice. The whites are macerated on the skins, but they also show a more delicate hand than is sometimes the case with wines made in this style. My visit to Damijan’s tiny cellar a few months ago was fascinating, as I tasted through every wine in barrel, including a few experimental wines: a Pinot Grigio macerated on the skins, and a Malvasia, both of which are highly promising. The 2006 whites are off the charts and reflect an enlightened, refined approach that is incredibly appealing. As always, whites that are macerated on the skins should be served at cellar temperature or slightly warmer (never chilled) in red wine glasses. I can’t recommend these wines highly enough. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200
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