The Cantine Colosi 2017 Malvasia delle Lipari Passito di Salina Na'jm (in a 500-milliliter bottle) is made according to the traditional approach in which the grapes are either air-dried on bamboo mats or they are left to dry on the vines before harvest. This process makes for extra intensity and flavor that is played forward with sweet apricot, honey and caramel. This vintage is not especially complex, but it finds a good comfort zone with ample sweetness and generous fruit.