Located in the middle of the appellation, Garys’ Vineyard wines often show a cool-warm combination of acidity and fruit-forwardness. This ’05, from Pinot master Dan Morgan Lee, shows brisk, zesty, squeezed-from-the-lime acids that boost exceptionally ripe cherry, strawberry and cola flavors that finish utterly dry and spicy. It will probably hang in there for a decade, but seems best for its fresh youthfulness.——S.H.(10/1/2007)—— 93