Lovers of traditional Amarone can appreciate a pinch of volatility (it sometimes appears as apple or cider) because it can add vibrancy, buoyancy and life to a wine when applied in measured doses. This is a good example of a wine enhanced by pungent apple that will appeal to those who like this style. Tommaso Bussola is a winemaking legend in these parts and is a leader in Valpolicella tradition. ——M.L.(12/1/2007)—— 90