If you like your Barolos young and oaky, then this is the wine for you. It’s filled with plush layers of milk chocolate, vanilla and hints of cedar and maple syrup. Yet somewhere under there is a Barolo whose cherry and citrus flavors emerge the day after you open the bottle. Accented by anise and floral notes; drink now, or try in 10 years. ——W.E.(4/2/2004)—— 90