Graillot's Hermitage, which should be a better wine than his Crozes-Hermitage, is, ironically, not as concentrated. The vines are younger, and while he makes little Hermitage, all of his Syrah comes from the vineyard on Hermitage hill called Greffieux, a vineyard more renowned for white than red Hermitage. The 1990 is the best red Hermitage I have tasted from Graillot. It offers up sweet smelling aromas of black-cherries, toasty new oak, and herbs. In the mouth, it is dense and full-bodied, with excellent concentration, a long, moderately tannic, unevolved taste, and a spicy, moderately tannic finish. It clearly needs 4-5 years of cellaring, but it will never reach the heights of Graillot's Crozes-Hermitage-La Guiraude. Importer: A Christopher Cannan/Europvin Selection, various importers.