The glass of Jadot’s 2006 Meursault Gouttes d’Or – from nearly 50 year old vines in the upper reaches of the site – pours forth lime, lime zest, mint, and pungent floral notes. In the mouth, it redeems that pungent promise with citrus zest, herb, and white pepper. Palpably rich, this is nonetheless extremely lively and refreshing: I imagine electrodes or magnets hooked to either end of the barrels. It should be well worth following for at least 6-8 years. Interestingly, Lardiere notes that yields on this vineyard are generally relatively high, yet the wine never lacks for concentration or ripeness, and seems imbalanced if subjected to stringent crop reduction.
The impressive collection of Jadot 2006s were slow both in their alcoholic fermentation and their malo-lactic evolution, which director Jacques Lardiere considered all to the good when it came to imposing structure and building complexity in wines of such ripeness and relatively high alcohol. In any case, Jadot whites seldom complete their malo-lactic transformation, and if one seeks a vintage to demonstrate the virtues of that approach, surely 2006 is the poster child. Furthermore, anyone who thinks that there are no values left in white Burgundy today has clearly not given Jadot’s wide range the attention it deserves. (These wines were assembled from barrel for my tasting and/or tasted from a range of individual barrels. I have generally made note of those wines not owned by Jadot and its associates by at least indicating whether grapes or juice were purchased.)
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