The cooperative’s top cuvee is the 2015 Hermitage Epsilon, which was bottled in July 2017. It’s aged in plenty of new oak, so if you’re averse to toast, vanilla and brown sugar notes, you may prefer the Gambert de Loche bottling. Nevertheless, this takes that level of plummy fruit concentration and adds an extra layer of richness and generosity. It’s creamy and lush yet should show more structure and terroir expression after a few years of cellaring.