Approximately half of the 2017 Hermitage Epsilon comes from L'Ermite, with the balance from Le Méal. Approaching 15% alcohol, it's a full-bodied, densely concentrated effort, with oaky notes of cedar, vanilla and smoked meat joined by almost chocolaty-ripe black cherries. But it does finish long and velvety, so while it's super ripe and amply oaked, it will still have plenty of appeal to many wine lovers. I suspect die-hard traditionalists won't feel the same way.