The 2006 Riesling Kabinett halbtrocken Muschelkalk is none other than the former Messmer Schlossgarten. (Messmer's Altenforst, analogously, has morphed into “Buntsandstein.” As we go to press, the German authorities are threatening to eliminate the burgeoning number of wines labeled for geological formations or rock types: whatever will these poor growers do? They’ll invent yet more winery-internal nicknames, I suppose, which will have no informational value, and which we’ll all have trouble remembering.) Pear and plum fruit informs a subtly silky, relatively soft but juicy palate, and a juicy finish glides off with ginger spice and what certainly seem like hints of chalkiness. This is not terribly concentrated or complex Riesling, but makes a virtue out of that in its straightforwardly, generously satisfying and undemanding way, and will provide lots of pleasure over the coming 3-4 years. Following a highly successful collection in 2005, the Messmers struggled like so many of their neighbors with conditions in 2006. They added pickers and managed to bring in the crop in only two weeks.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel (516) 677-9300