Quinta do Casal Branco Merlot Capucho

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The 2004 MERLOT “CAPUCHO,” aged in oak for 4 months, is not what one typically sees from Casal Branco, but it is a wine that is of some interest, showing good structure, and it has held well. It is bright and focused. Its mid-palate concentration is pretty good for its age, but it is on the slighter side and thins fairly fast, taking on a bit of a lean demeanor. The touch of bitterness on the finish on opening blows off fairly quickly, and I rather liked its character and the lingering, succulent finish. It is an interesting rendition of Merlot that steadily grew on me for its earthy character and bright elegance, but its price point will make it a hard sell. Drink now-2015. Casal Branco has a lot of brands, which are often bewildering. Some seem largely importer-driven, with Vino Cava’s imports of Capoeira and Quartilho, in particular. If you are comparing, the Capoeira white is 90% Fernao Pires, with 10% Sauvignon Blanc, a blend for the importer (similar, however, to Casal Branco’s Terra de Lobos branco) , while the ’09 “normal” Branco just carrying the Casal Branco label with no other branding, also reviewed this issue, is 100% Fernao Pires. That normal Casal Branco white, however, to continue the confusion, is similar to the Quartilho white (with the big “Q” on the label), close enough to be called the same by one of the importers, also 100% Fernao Pires and unoaked. On the other hand, the Quartilho red, reviewed in the past, is different than the normal Casal Branco red, as the Quartilho does not contain any international grapes. If it is hard to keep up with the branding, one bottom line is that Casal Branco’s wines are usually very fine values.Importer: Vino Cava, LLC, Wayne, PA; tel: (610) 688-8415; for the Falcoaria and Casal Branco labels only: Tri-Vin Imports, Mt. Vernon, N.Y.; tel: (914) 664-3155;