The blockbuster 2009 St.-Joseph Ste.-Epine exhibits an opaque purple color as well as a remarkable nose of black fruits, graphite, ink, incense and subtle barbecue smoke. Elegant yet massive and rich, with an unctuous texture and good underlying acidity (although less than in 2010), this deep, full-bodied, powerful 2009 should drink well for two decades or more. Another great negociant with significant vineyard holdings, and at the top of their game, is undeniably Delas, owned by the Louis Roederer/Deutz Champagne firm. Since they acquired Delas well over a decade ago, this firm has been under the management of Burgundian Jacques Grange, who has done an outstanding job producing a sensational array of wines. The 2009s appear to be their finest overall performances to date, and the 2010s are noteworthy successors in a more restrained, mineral dominated, crisper style. Jacques Grange did a fabulous job with his Cote Roties in both 2009 and 2010, the latter being a somewhat more challenging vintage in this appellation. The Hermitage Domaine des Tourettes (until the 2009 vintage, this offering was known as the Hermitage Marquise de la Tourette) is sensational in both 2010 and 2009. Three thousand cases of this cuvee are produced, and the wine is aged in French oak, 50% new.Importer: Maison Marques et Domaines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 587-2000

A touch stolid now, with a wall of mocha and charcoal in front of the core of currant, blackberry and linzer torte flavors, but there's a racy graphite spine and a lipsmacking pastis hint at the end. Should knit in the cellar. Best from 2013 through 2020. 100 cases imported. –JM