The 2006 Crianza Seleccion is purple-colored with a fragrant nose of cedar, spice box, black cherry, and black currant. Smooth-textured, savory, and ripe, it has excellent depth, concentration, and length. It will evolve for 2-3 years and be at its best from 2010 to 2016. Importer: Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates From Spain, Dedham, MA; tel. (781) 461-5767

Stylistically speaking, this oak-aged wine is very different from all of Borsao’s fruit-first Garnachas. And that isn’t exactly a full-out compliment. So while the wine has balance and structure, the oak seems dominant on the nose and palate, which lends more vanilla and cream than spice and character.——M.S.(12/15/2008)—— 86