The area around Lake Corbara in Umbria is one of the few spots in Italy that regularly delivers manageable Botrytis cinerea to its grapes. These unique climatic conditions require just the right level of humidity, heat and wind to allow for some so-called noble rot, but not too much as to overwhelm the delicate nature of the fruit. This wine, the 2015 Orvieto Classico Superiore Muffa Nobile Calcaia, registers high on a list of Italian wines that meets all these terribly tenuous growing conditions. The wine offers beautifully fragrant aromas of peach, white flower, honey and some button mushroom at the back. Made in half bottles (or 500-milliliters), production is 15,000 strong. The blend of fruit used is 80% Grechetto with smaller parts Trebbiano and Procanico. No oak is used.