This wine shows terrific complexity at this young age, with spicy notes akin to musk, dusty notes akin to crushed stone and plenty of underlying fruit. It’s stony yet sweet, lush yet crisp. A trifle heavier than expected, it finishes long, with savory-briny notes. Might this rating seem conservtive in 5–10 years?——J.C.(6/1/2011)—— 91