This wine costs a lot for what it’s giving. The nose starts out hard and fruitless, and while the aromas come around, the wine always holds onto its corn and haystack character. Zippy acidity gives the mouth zest, and it also livens up papaya, banana and apricot flavors. Complex and different, but does it taste good enough to justify a $78 price tag? ——M.S.(4/1/2011)—— 88