Ironically, a challenging vintage called forth from Bedell a 2006 Musee that I found much more pleasurable than their self-consciously weighty response to the optimal ripening season of 2005. Myriad herbs, tobacco, carob, and saline, alkaline suggestions of sea breeze in the nose lead to a palate that is to be sure not sweetly ripe, but is tartly dark-berryish and possesses a seemingly natural sense of lift, refreshment, and invigorating salinity and alkalinity. Hints of artichoke, fennel, and tomato foliage integrate nicely with cassis and blackberry.Film executive (“Lord of the Rings” producer) and art collector Michael Lynne has maintained a team under the direction of Bordeaux oenologist Pascal Marty Kip in which founding winemaker Kip Bedell remains involved as a consultant.Tel. (631) 734-7537