The red wines begin with the 2005 Merlot which has 14% Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend. It spent 15 months in barrel, 13% new. Cedar, spice box, cherry and red currant aromas lead to a supple entry. The flavors are attractive but ultimately the wine comes off as too lean. Bergevin Lane, owned and operated by Annette Bergevin and Amber Lane, has another top-notch set of new releases.Tel. (509) 526-4300; www.bergevinlane.com

This is a sweet and round and forward Merlot, at least upon entry. Then it takes a right angle turn, adding more astringent flavors of rock and earth and green tea. It’s not quite Jekyll & Hyde, but it’s not entirely pulled together. It needs a substantial piece of grilled meat to help soften those finishing tannins.——P.G.(12/1/2008)—— 87