Weingut Ratzenberger Bacharacher Wolfshohle Riesling Auslese, Mittelrhein, Germany

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Ratzenberger served me his 2007 Bacharacher Wolfshohle Riesling Auslese before the corresponding Spatlese. Apple jelly and cherry preserves in the nose lead to a richly-fruited palate, subtly-creamy; brimming with apple, lemon, and pineapple; and tinged with yeast and vanilla. In the finish, lemon zest and tart fruit skin add a sense of invigoration and a strong suggestion of wet stone a sense of gravitas. This definitely needs time for its parts to integrate, but is already impressive and intriguing. I would anticipate its being worth cellaring for at least 20 years. Jochen Ratzenberger Jr. expressed delight with his 2007s, and even though I’m straining to recollect a vintage with which he wasn’t pleased, the truth is, he and his father comprise one of the most consistently high-performance teams in German viticulture, and their 2007 collection is consistently impressive. Both of the Ratzenbergers’ 2007 vintage Grosse Gewachse – in what has been fairly typical behavior – finished fermenting only in mid-August, and were immediately bottled with barely enough time to appear at the annual Berlin Presentation of Germany’s collective wines in this genreImported by Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608 9644