Weingut Ratzenberger Bacharacher Wolfshohle Riesling Auslese, Mittelrhein, Germany

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The 2006 Bacharacher Wolfshohle Riesling Auslese gives off pungent, spicy, musky notes of botrytis; fills the mouth with creamy, honeyed peach preserves, mango, and musk melon; and finishes also very musky, honeyed and rich, with faintly bitter notes of botrytis and fruit desiccation that block optimum expressiveness. This expansive but not at all heavy Riesling represents intensive family labors to pick out perfectly botrytized bunches and berries, relates Jochen Ratzenberger, and perhaps more clarity and finishing expressiveness will come with time. Certainly there is no point in revisiting it for at least 6-8 years, after which it ought to hold up well for that long again. Without spraying against botrytis, Jochen Ratzenberger Jr. insists that the proper management of the family’s vines and greening between the rows kept rot at bay, but 30% less than a normal volume was harvested. The Ratzenbergers began picking on Septermber 25 and were done on the 12th of October.Imported by Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608 9644