The 2005 Gewurztraminer Steingrubler smells of litchis and brown-spiced cherries, marinated in brandy. But despite the heady alcoholic suggestions rising from the glass, no heat is generated as this envelops the palate with rich, sweet fruit and generous spice. There is admirable concentration on display as one works this around in the mouth, but I miss a corresponding length. This would be well worth revisiting, and gives no indication of having to be drunk before five or six years are out. The affable Francois Barmes vocally advocates biodynamic viticulture and earlier harvesting to achieve balanced wines of juicy fruit and digestabilite. That said, more than a few of those I tasted were big-bodied to say the least, and certain of them could not handle their alcohol.Importer: Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608 9644; also, a Thomas Calder Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29.
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