Distilled herbal essences, roses, and kirsch waft from the glass of Barmes’ 2004 Gewurztraminer Steingrubler. A liqueur-like palate impression – supported by sweetness – confirms the richness, glossiness, and intensity of this quite refined wine’s personality. But a sappy, juicy finish lends itself to a very elegant overall impression, with subtle smokiness and persistent rose perfume. The ripe concentration and uncanny balance of this wine should serve it well for 7-10 years in one’s cellar.The affable Francois Barmes vocally advocates biodynamic viticulture and earlier harvesting to achieve balanced wines of juicy fruit and digestabilite. That said, more than a few of those I tasted were big-bodied to say the least, and certain of them could not handle their alcohol.Importer: Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608 9644; also, a Thomas Calder Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29.
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