The 2009 St. Aubin En Charmois emerges from the glass with yellow stone fruit, ash and flowers. It is another racy, opulent wine that should offer its finest drinking relatively early. Anticipated maturity: 2012+. Bruno Colin’s 2009s show quite a bit of freshness for the year. The harvest began early, on September 5. The malos were finished in between December 2009 and March 2010. The Bourgogne, St. Aubin En Charmois and Chassagne-Montrachet were bottled before the 2010 harvest, while the rest of the 2009s were bottled in March 2011. I tasted the 2010 Bourgogne Aligote, Bourgogne, St. Aubin En Charmois and Chassagne-Montrachet from steel, while the remainder of the 2010s were in barrel. Colin planned to rack the rest of the 2010s in July and bottle in the winter of 2011/2012. Importers: Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400, Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524