This joint venture between Concha y Toro and the owners of Chateau Mouton Rothschild is hitting its stride. The latest Almaviva showcases sweet, dark, plummy fruit, all wrapped in a cedary cloak of earth, tobacco and cassis. Smooth and supple, framed with soft tannins, there’s no need to cellar it, but it should last well. ——J.C.(3/1/2002)—— 92