As usual for its site, the Jamek 2007 Riesling Smaragd Freiheit offers a high-toned, pungent, faintly spiritous nose of apricot, apricot kernel, and citrus oils. Oily in texture, full and rich, this very ripe, subtly botrytis-influenced Riesling finishes with salted apricot and a prickly hint of grapefruit zest, and slight heat. More imposing than intriguing, I suspect it will be best drunk over the next 3-4 years. After witnessing as a customer first hand last year the virtual absence of any remaining wine under 13% alcohol in the wonderful Jamek restaurant (and that was only in late June), it was a relief to know that 2007 provided a goodly supply. That said, as is often the case at this address – and this year even at Federspiel level – botrytis was a frequent and at times less than felicitous influence.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300