The 2008 Cotes de Tablas has already been bottled. This California Cote du Rhone look-alike, made from 42% Grenache, 21% Syrah, 20% Counoise (which must be an all-time high for that varietal in a Rhone Ranger blend), and 17% Mourvedre, displays the earthier side of Rhone Rangers. Spicy, dark berries intermixed with underbrush, forest floor, pepper, and soy are followed by a medium-bodied, earthy wine in contrast to the more fruit-driven 2007. Drink it over the next 3-4 years. Robert Haas, the iconic French wine importer, who was one of the first to bring estate-bottled French wines into the United States, continues to go from strength to strength at Tablas Creek. His partner remains the Perrin family of Chateau Beaucastel in Chateauneuf du Pape. They have had three tiny vintages in a row, all producing very small yields, but the quality of their 2007s is the best in the history of the winery, and 2008 is certainly a strong vintage as well. These are wonderful, food-friendly wines with considerable complexity. While they do some varietal naming, the strength of Tablas Creek is their extraordinary Rhone Ranger blends, whether white or red. The 2009 vintage turned out to be an even smaller crop than 2008 and 2007 as a result of spring frost.Tel. (805) 237-1231; Fax (805) 237-1314

An easy-drinking blend of Grenache, Syrah, Counoise and Mourvedre. It’s soft and gentle, with pretty cherry, mocha and spice flavors. Ready now.——S.H.(7/1/2011)—— 87