I re-tasted a few of the 2004 reds, and the medium-bodied 2004 Cotes de Tablas (60% Grenache and 40% Syrah and Mourvedre) exhibits lovely peppery, berry fruit, roasted herb, and gamy scents. It is a top-notch example of a California version of a Cotes du Rhone. Tel. 805-237-1231; Fax 805-237-1314

A junior version of the winery’s Esprit bottling, although this one’s based on Grenache and is much richer and almost sweeter in cherry liqueur. It’s a soft, simple wine, but beguiling. You might almost call it seductive. ——S.H.(4/1/2007)—— 87