Andrea Costanti is one of the most consistent growers in Montalcino, and it shows in the 2008 Brunello di Montalcino, a wine that impresses for its elegance, finesse and harmony. Sweet dark cherries, tobacco, licorice and savory herbs all flesh out in the glass. Surprisingly pliant and generous for the year, the 2008 is a model of class and pure pedigree. Approachable today, the 2008 should have no problem aging gracefully to age 20 and likely beyond. It is without question one of the few great wines of the year. Spiced notes flesh out on the generous, seductive finish. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2023. Andrea Costanti has turned out a superb set of wines. What else is new? His 2008 Brunello is one of the wines of the vintage. Judging by the wines Costanti has in the cellar, there are plenty of exciting Brunellos in the pipeline as well. Costanti ages his Brunellos in a combination of cask and tonneau. Tasting the separate components illustrates the effect of oak on unfinished wines to a striking degree. Personally, I feel this fruit, from relatively high-altitude sites near the center of town, is best suited to more neutral oak. That is also true of the Riserva, a wine that, while outstanding, doesn-t seem to hit the same high notes as the straight bottling. I have long thought of Costanti as a top ten estate in Montalcino, but I am now convinced this property could belong in the top five. Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900

A supple version, laced with cherry, plum and briar notes. The structure exhibits more acidity than tannins, with a firm, lingering finish. Best from 2015 through 2029. Tasted twice, with consistent notes.??–BS??Region: Italy / Brunello di Montalcino Select to Add