The estate's 2000 Montefalco Rosso Riserva presents a rustic, gamey personality in its dark fruit, with slightly volatile, oxidized notes and rough, unpolished tannins. It offers good up-front fruit, but falls short on the mid-palate. Readers who love Bea's wines may view this Rosso Riserva in a more favorable light, but given that he is clearly capable of making better wines, this effort is disappointing, mostly because the raw materials were clearly there. The 2000 Rosso Riserva is 60% Sangiovese, 25% Montepulciano and 15% Sagrantino. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2018. Paolo Bea's wines represent the finest of the artisan approach to winemaking. Bea farms his vineyards naturally. The wines are made in a traditional style that calls for extended periods of skin contact and several years of aging. At their best these are finessed expressive wines of the highest level in a style that recalls the Brunellos of Gianfranco Soldera or the Barolos of Giuseppe Rinaldi, to name just two producers with a similar aesthetic.Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchants, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990
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