A step up over the classic cuvée, the 2012 Chateauneuf du Pape Boisrenard, which is mostly old-vine Grenache yet incorporates all 13 of the allowed varieties, leans heavily toward the more fresh, focused and elegant end of the spectrum. Giving up notions of spice-box, dried licorice and mulled black berry fruits, it’s an outstanding effort, yet I can’t help but think this cuvée was more impressive in the past when it had more power and richness. Nevertheless, it should drink nicely for 10-12 years.
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